Work, migration and poverty in the South Indian garment industry

Grace Carswell and Geert De Neve
With Judith Heyer (University of Oxford) and M.Vijayabaskar (Madras Institute of Development Studies)

Despite sporadic attention by the media to conditions in so-called ‘sweat-shops’ very little is known about the livelihoods of garment workers who produce for export markets, or indeed the livelihoods of those excluded from such jobs. 

This research examines how garment work for export markets affects poverty, inequality and social mobility at the tail end of a global production network by focussing on the city of Tiruppur and surrounding rural areas in Tamil Nadu, a region that is otherwise known as one of the most dynamic and successful industrial regions of south India. Located at the heart of a rapidly industrialising region, Tiruppur is seen as a success story of global integration and rapid economic development, and is thus an ideal location to assess the impacts of economic growth on livelihoods and poverty.

Findings

The findings from this research generally counteract the prevailing view that this type of work is exploitative and undesirable.  In fact it is a sought-after livelihood option for many workers, whether from Tiruppur itself, the surrounding area, or for those who migrate long distances to take advantage of the new opportunities.

City

In the city, the research has showed that working in the garment industry is widely seen to be desirable - despite the long working hours - and compares favourably with alternatives in agriculture or in other sectors of the informal economy.  Against usual assumptions about so-called ‘sweat-shops’, many workers in Tiruppur actively prefer to work in smaller workshops as these give them much valued flexibility, autonomy and freedom rather than the larger organisations which are increasingly regulated by international labour standards.

Rural Areas

In the rural areas, working in Tiruppur is an aspiration for many, especially young people, from lower castes who see such work as symbolising freedom, independence from rural landowners, and a promise of social and spatial mobility.  Access to such work, however, is very uneven in the region.  In some villages, Dalits are ‘stuck’ in relationships of debt bondage with powerloom factory owners. 

Migration

The garment industry attracts men and women from a diversity of backgrounds.  Many commute daily from villages of up to 50km away.  They leave behind cultivation or agricultural labour, which is increasingly done by women and older people.  In addition, Tiruppur attracts long-distance migrants from across southern India.  Many come from drought-prone areas or regions without much industry, and debt is a major cause for migration.  Migrants do not always get easy access to the best jobs in the industry and many return home after a spell of a few months or years in Tiruppur.  Others settle permanently in the city.